A friend and former colleague reached out after reading the mobile transition and other posts with a good suggestion:
The “what happened” is fun, but I’d be more interested to read about how you do what you do.
I thought it was a really good suggestion! I’ve added a new section “How I…”
And to get things started:
How I…Become a Regular
I don’t know about you, but as a kid, one of the coolest moments in movies was when our hero walked into a restaurant, got greeted by name, and taken to a great table. Inevitably, the chef would come out and casually mention that they were “working on something special” and offer to give them a taste. Billions’ showrunner, Brian Koppelman, captures this with Axe brilliantly.
To me, this always seemed magical and unattainable — like the surfing and skydiving in Point Break. But, as I’ve gotten older, I discovered I have a real knack for it. Being a food fanboi helps, of course, but when a SmartNews colleague asked how the hell I already knew so many chefs in Tokyo — a city I had never spent time in — it felt worth writing up.
Because, like anything else, there’s a playbook.
Becoming a Regular 101
Here’s the secret: you become a regular by being a regular.
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If you really enjoy an experience at a restaurant, let the staff know on your way out. Be genuine about this and read the room, e.g. a good-to-great tip, don’t waste anyone’s time (especially if they’re in the weeds), and don’t be demanding about it. The experience and the team who made your meal memorable are the focus, not you.
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Go back. Not necessarily the next night — though I have done this — but within a week. (Pro move: make this reservation before you leave) Make a reservation so you get your name into their system, if there’s a chance to indicate it’s a return visit do so, don’t have expectations of being recognized, and enjoy it all again. Bring some friends who weren’t there the first time and let them enjoy it, too. If the host or chef gives you a card, send them a thank you note and what made it a great experience. Don’t forget good-to-great tip.
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Go back, again. Make a reservation. Again, don’t have expectations, bring a friend or two who’ll enjoy it, maybe a repeat from the first two visits. If it’s a well run restaurant and they’re not absolutely slammed, a host, server, or owner/chef will likely say hello. You’ll almost certainly get a card or contact info, if you do, send a thank you note.
That’s it, you’re in. When you go back, someone will almost certainly say hello, check on you, and general make sure that while every guest is having a great experience, you are getting a great experience, too.
What if nobody notices? What if you’ve gone back, been kind, tipped good-to-great, and still…nothing? Well, there are really two options. First, maybe the restaurant is so damn busy and popular that they’re constantly in the weeds and just hanging on for dear life. Be patient or pick quieter times to show up. Try the blue plate special or visit on Tuesday. Second, it’s not a well run restaurant. Nobody is reviewing reservations, the staff isn’t being trained or cared for, or it’s a vanity or hobby project that will vanish in a few months. Move on, try the next cool spot you’ve had your eye on.
What to Do Once You’re a Regular
Nothing! Keep going to the restaurant and don’t be a douchelord.
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Don’t try to make this about you. Everyone who’s in the restaurant business — and working the frankly insane hours they do — is doing it because they care about service and bringing you an amazing experience every time. Being a kind regular can make their day a little easier which translates to an even more magical experience for you.
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Be cool when the chef or server brings you something special to try or asks for your opinion about a special. You’re now part of the team, help keep it amazing place to visit.
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If you spot something going wrong, consider politely mentioning it. This one is tricky, but most of my friends who’re in the business say they’d rather get the feedback right away. Again, key here is to not make it about you or because you’re somehow entitled to access.
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Don’t try to take advantage of it. Yes, everyone who’s ever had the phone number for a maître d’ has texted them with the “any chance you can sneak me in as a party of 2 sometime tonight?” That’s normal, expected. Just be prepared for the answer to be “no” or to have conditions like “can you be on time and out in an hour?” Don’t be a jerk about it if you don’t get the answer you wanted.
Being a regular isn’t actually about you, it’s about making a place that you love an even better experience for everyone. Share your love for it with friends.
Don’t be Tyler bragging about your Pacojet.
Author’s note: Hey, Pacojet, when you read this know that I would absolutely accept sponsorship of this blog from Pacojet. I’d even come to Rotkreuz to discuss it. Despite my limited palate and poor technique, I’d use the shit out of a Pacojet and post many, many oversaturated pictures to Instagram.
Becoming a Regular 201
If you want to level up the experience, there’s another option. It’s not free, but likely way less expensive than you think — you definitely don’t need to be a character in Billions to pull it off:
A lot of chefs and restaurants will do catering. If you have a event or party, hire them! It will not only ensure your event has way better food than anyone will expect, it’s a chance to meet the team in a different setting and for many Chef/owners it’s an important part of their business plan.
So, there you have it.